In 1987 Geoff, Graciela, Nicholas and Jennifer were in NZ and Joanna was no longer living at home so instead of Joanna we took Nicholas (aged almost 8) with his valuable, Chilean, German and New Zealand passports. Geoff had to sign a statement at the Chilean Embassy in Wellington giving his approval for us to take Nicholas to Chile. The form was very official with several stamps. We booked and paid for the trip with Jose San Salvador at AA Travel. On the 1st December we were advised that Aerolineas Argentinas had cancelled their flight to Lima and we had to fly from BA to Brazil to Mexico City. This was not satisfactory however on the 15th December, one day before we left, we were advised of an amended itinerary which then included Lima.
We had a few surprises at the Auckland airport on the 16th December. First of all our plane was delayed two hours. When were in the Departure Lounge we noticed that our boarding passes were a different colour to other peoples. We wondered if this was another muck up. However when we got to the gate, a very apologetic official said that because we had been messed us around so much they have put us in the Business Class.
Avril and Nick sat together but I was sitting with an Argentinian woman a couple of rows away. Dinner was served about midnight and of course Nick was fast asleep. The Hostess insisted that the moment Nick woke, Avril should ring the kitchen and his dinner would be brought out. Nick woke about 6.00am and had his dinner.
After flying around the Antarctic during the night we flew over the lakes of southern Chile and Patagonia before landing at Ezeiza Airport, Buenos Aires at 6.00pm. We were met by Cielo Subiza, our travel guide from Fairways South America who took us to a large black car and gave us an escorted tour of BA, finishing up at our Bisonte Hotel on Calle Libertad. The Bisonte Hotel seemed to be the only new building in the area and it was very pleasant and comfortable. We showered, rested, took our guide’s advice and took a taxi to La Cabaña – claimed to be the biggest and best steak house in the world. The restaurant had very traditional décor, dark wooden furniture and panelling with Chianti bottles stacked in large cane baskets on the shelves everywhere. I presume they were empty. The bife chorizo (“baby beef”) was delicious – quite the best steak ever. It was served with chips and a bottle of Argentinean red. Nick was the only child in the restaurant. His behaviour was impeccable and he was given a yellow carnation to present to Avril. The service was excellent. There seemed to be a large number of waiters; many of them elderly. We returned to the hotel and slept intermittently until about 7.00am. I think Nick had woken earlier.
Breakfast was self service with a great selection of fruit and breads. From the dining room we had a great view of a neighbouring park. After breakfast we went for a walk through Plaza Libertad, and along Av. 9 de Julio to Arroya and then back through Libertad. We found some exclusive shops selling, furniture and furnishings, and kitchenware. It was 9.00am and the streets were fairly empty but the smell of diesel fumes from buses was very evident. We then packed our bags and phoned for the bellboy and Gela who met us in the foyer and then drove us to the domestic terminal at the Jorge Newbery airport. She farewelled us on arrival and then we had a good half hour wait at the check in counter and then another long wait at Customs and a long queue to pay the Departure Tax and another queue to board the plane.
The first stop was Mendoza where we had a 30 minute stopover. Then over the Andes. The weather was clear and I was able to take some great photos of the mountains. As we landed at Santiago the passengers clapped and cheered. We had more queuing and waiting for our luggage and then into the crowd where we were welcomed so warmly by Hugo and Alicia. Nicholas of course received great affection, especially when we got home to Blanco Viel 1321 where Catalina was beside herself with joy to see her Nicolás.
The house was cool and delightfully full of flowers; gladioli, roses, and daisies. In our bedroom was upstairs there was a bowl of roses. Everything was beautifully prepared for our arrival. We settled in and had once and then went upstairs and unpacked and got everything organised. Then we had a special welcome dinner beginning with the traditional pisco sour. We retired to bed at 11.00pm and slept soundly. Nicholas did not wake until 10.00am the net day!
After breakfast al fresco on the 18th we went into Santiago to Aerolineas Argentina to confirm future bookings and then we changed travellers cheques at a Casa de Cambio where Hugo was known.
Then we went on to the Post Office which was crowded out with people on the pavement selling stamps and Christmas cards. Home again on the Metro. After lunch Avril and I had a siesta while Hugo and Alicia went to work. They collect payments from a firm’s clients.
After a late breakfast on the 19th Avril and Nick helped Hugo set up the Christmas tree. The decorations had not been used for two years so some of the lamps had to be replaced. Nick was invited next door for lunch with Martin and his family and stayed there until about 4.00pm. Avril and I had a siesta; we seem to have to catch up on a lot of sleep. Then we drove out to the Graneros del Alba and Los Dominicos. We saw a wonderful variety of stalls selling ceramics, Macul weaving, copper, caneware, paintings, wood turnings, Christmas decorations and leather goods. Nick bought a woollen puppet mobile and Avril bought some souvenirs to take home. On the way home we stopped at the Da Dino for a beer and individual pizzas.
On Sunday morning Emmy called to see us. Nicholas was being constantly looked after by Catalina. Every wish of his was anticipated. Before lunch we went to Parque O’Higgins to walk under the trees and watch the Christmas stalls being set up before visiting a museum of butterflies, moths and insects of South America. We passed quite a number of restaurants, each with a man outside encouraging us to come in. I used Geoff’s video camera for the first time before returning home for lunch. Hugo Chico and David arrived from Maitencillo during lunch; much welcoming and hugging all round. After siesta, Avril packed up the Christmas presents while Nick, David and Martin played in the swimming pool
On the 21st while Hugo went to the bank and basketball, Avril, Alicia and I went to the city to buy Graciela’s Lapis Lazuli earrings as requested by Geoff. We also visited Pablo Zabal’s shop and bought a small brown coffee set with wooden saucers.
We walked through a very arty district near the zoo and saw lots of small galleries selling modern art, ceramics and embroidery. In the evening when Hugo, Emmy, Marcella and Inès were there, I showed them a New Zealand video on the TV monitor which was very much appreciated by all.
The next day the pre-christmas build up continued with a visit to the big open market for fruit and vegetables. David and Nick came with us. It was a bit of an eye opener for Avril and me to see the wide range of just about everything available for sale. We bought potatoes, onions, green beans, tomatoes, cherries, apricots, chirimoya and two pineapples. Hugo held the cash and recorded each item as Alicia negotiated the price. When the total is agreed between Hugo and the stall holder, the money is carefully counted and handed over.
After lunch I went to Providencia with the video camera. I was a little disappointed with what I saw. There were no outside decorations for Christmas, and at 3.00pm there were not many shoppers around. The Caracol was mainly empty of shops and some of the vacant lots had been turned into offices. It did not seem to be the affluent shopping centre that I saw in 1980 and 1983. However, I got a great haircut for 800 pesos ($3) and had an ice cream for 90 pesos. When I was in Almacenes Paris, I was asked to stop filming.
During the next two days preparations for Christmas continued with cooking and shopping. I bought Nick a very mobile wooden snake and then on the 24th Christmas began with a call from 100 Heke Street. Geoff, David and Leona spoke to Avril, Nicholas and me and Graciela spoke to her parents and Nick. It was raining in Wellington; so different to Santiago’s dry heat.
After lunch Alicia and Avril prepared decorations and then Avril went for a “blow wave” at Fabriola’s. Roberto came to visit. He picked some apricots, chatted with Catalina, picked up a bag of gifts for his family and said his goodbyes.
At 9.00pm Cristina, Paula and David arrived and we all sat outside for sherry, pisco and aperitivo, queso, olives, quesilla, pâté. American crackers and integral gherkins were on the table. Hugo Chico came on his own. Then we went inside to the lounge where there was a Nativity scene on a table.
Then came the presents, the excitement, the hugs with paper in all directions. There were many lovely gifts and David and Paula received some rather extravagant gifts from each parent; walkie talkies, cameras, clothes toys, and medals from Cristina for being excellent students.
Nicholas got a model helicopter from Cristina, a camera from Geoff and Graciela, El Gran Camino from Avril and Pops, some books (Hansel and Gretel and Sinbad the Sailor) from Emmy, a sport rover from Hugo and Alicia, a yoyo from Paula, some shorts from Avril and Pops, Power Rods from Tio Hugo and a Transformer from Catalina.
When all the excitement subsided we went to the dining room where Avril was asked to say Grace. It was a delicious meal. A vegetable flan was served as a cold entree then roast beef and gravy with potato salad with beans, tomatoes and sliced onion. We had very rich ice cream sliced at the table for dessert and this was followed by fudge cake, coffee and Christmas cake.
With Paula on the guitar, we sang some Christmas songs. Hugo left the table towards the end of the meal to help Nicholas with his helicopter model and left for his girlfriend’s place shortly afterwards. At midnight we were all ready for bed. Emmy stayed the night.
Christmas Day was a restful day. Emmy had a headache; “too much Christmas”. Cristina arrived with her children to take Nicholas home for lunch and to stay the night. We went for an afternoon drive to Las Condes and Vitacura to see some very expensive homes with well watered gardens in the hills.
We even were able to look down on a new mansion built for President Pinochet built with a commanding view of Santiago but for security reasons we believe he never lived there. After a lunch we went to a film “Blind Date”, had a snack and returned Emmy to the flat in Nunoa that she shared with Marcella.
On the 26th we were to catch a bus to take us to southern Chile that night but first we had lunch at Cristina’s house. It was a small apartment but had some very interesting paintings and photos of rural scenes. It was a delicious lunch. The whole baked fish was most tasty.
We were home about 3.30 and Hugo’s girlfriend Ilse brought Nicholas home. We thought she was a lovely girl – a singing teacher who also sings professionally. She seemed to be a good match for Hugo.
We set off for the bus at 9.45 after much counting of bags and rushing around. We went in two cars to the nearest JAC Autobus to arrive from the central depot. Hugo wandered off to buy a newspaper much to the concern of Alicia. The bus eventually arrived and we found it extremely comfortable and quiet with deep reclining seats. They provided small pillows and knee rugs and we settled down for a comfortable night’s sleep; even Nicholas and David.
Before 7.00am the attendant brought small madeira cakes and some hot sweet black coffee. We were passing through good fertile green farming country. We stopped at Villarica for about 20 minutes. Snow covered Osorno volcano was a great sight as we continued south.
We finally got off the bus at Molco, collected our many bags and headed for our house, No 38. This is a small resort by the lake with lots of holiday homes set among lovely trees. Our house had three bedrooms, a kitchen and a living room. The furniture was solid wood and old and everything was covered with dust.
We went to the restaurant for a late breakfast. The air was lovely; not too hot. Later we unpacked and rested. We returned to the restaurant for a late lunch and then Avril and I took the boys to the beach. Avril even had a swim. She found the water was quite warm. There were quite a lot of people on the beach – lots of children with small dinghies.
There was a little pickup vehicle with the house so in the afternoon we headed to Villarica to find the house of the Poff family; Chris Poff’s parents. Only Mrs Poff was at home but she welcomed us warmly and invited us in for a cup of tea. The boys played quietly. Nicholas was immediately drawn to a pile of English language books. The Poffs have one son with his 4 year old son living with them. The boy’s mother lives in Temuco. The Poffs had lived and farmed in Chile for 20 years and they still retain land for dry stock and crops. We enjoyed talking with Mrs Poff and hearing her view that NZ’s involvement in Soprole was good for Chile and how the Kiwi fruit production could overtake New Zealand’s production. The Chilean Kiwifruit were of excellent quality and were marketed overseas before the New Zealand product was ready. Hugo and Alicia said Mrs Poff’s Spanish was very good. Back to Molco. The boys got to bed late but fortunately woke up late.
The next day we went out touring in the little pickup. Around the lake we stopped at Hotel Antumalal; rather opulent and expensive at US$150 a night. There were large skin rugs everywhere; spacious lounges, huge fireplaces and magnificent lake views. The gardens were the best we had seen in Chile with superb plantings, pathways, lawns, little stone steps and waterfalls. Then we went on to Pucón where we visited the lake and the jetty and had a beer at the old style Gran Hotel Pucón. We went on north to the Parque Nacional at Lake Caburgua through extensive pine forests. We had lunch at a country restaurant. The first restaurant we called at only offered chicken. Hugo asked how long would it be before the meal was ready. We were told about 1½ hours. She had first to catch the chicken and then cook it. We moved on.
The next restaurant also had a limited menu. We were offered rice with steak or steak with rice. For the first time in Chile for us, the wine was served from a cardboard flask.
The boys went swimming in la Playa Blanca; a safe little beach with white sand. While Hugo slept under the trees, Alicia, the boys and I hired a dinghy and went for a row. Huge blowflies seemed to hang about.
We left the beach about four and then began a long dusty trip to Parque Nacional Huerquehue. On the back of the truck we were coated with dust. The road deteriorated and after a couple of Km we turned back. We saw a couple of oxen loading logs on to the back of an old truck. We stopped at a café for tea and very dry bread. Not a very tasty meal but the toilets were very clean. We returned via Pucon and stopped at a lovely artesania market and then home for much needed showers as we were covered in dust from head to foot. The dust had affected Alicia’s contact lens. We were weary but we put the boys to bed and played whist.
The next day we went to Temuco by bus as planned. The bus passed through Villarica and then into very good farming land producing wheat, barley, and dairying. Some paddocks were cut for hay. We found Temuco to be a flat, well planned city, of about 40,000 people. We found some interesting architecture in the housing suburbs but very few high rise buildings in the city centre. We visited the large exciting market but fruit and vegetables less plentiful than in Santiago.
The open butcher’s shop offered all sorts of cuts from beef and sheep. There were masses of souvenir stalls selling wool wood and string goods. The Mapuche Indian poncho and rug sellers were particularly persistent.
We had lunch in a cafeteria in the market; enticed by the women waitresses calling out, “Por favor, sirvanse la comida aquí” We started off with humitas which were excellent. Then Avril and I had sopa de mariscos which was very heavily seasoned with coriander which was too strong for Avril. Nicholas’s plate of meat and mashed potato looked much more inviting for Avril. We noticed the café had a microwave and the energetic waitresses certainly offered fast service.
We took a taxi to the top of the nearby hill where there was an information centre and a large restaurant preparing for New Year’s Eve festivities. We had a cold drink at the bar but there was hardly anyone around and we wondered how much the young barman was paid to spend his time waiting hopefully for customers.
We later visited a museum where the history of Temuco and the local Mapuche Indians was well set out. I think this was as far south as Pedro de Valdivia was able to conquer. The boys played on an old steam engine in the park and then we returned to the centre for tea and cakes at the Salon de Te.
The local volunteer fire brigade was holding a fundraising demonstration and it was interesting to see them decked out in black helmet and a military type uniform.
Shopping with David was a bit challenging. He had a tendency to dash across the road and into a shop without looking for the traffic. He liked to climb on to counters and ask for something to eat or drink all the time. We then caught the bus back to Molco. The elders dozed while the boys read comics.
In the morning after breakfast I went walking with my camera and Hugo took the boys to the restaurant to ask about lunch.
Hugo found the manager would not be turning up for work till 12.30 so we decided to go to Pucón where we found a delightful restaurant called La Marmita de Pericles. Our meal was all served on wooden platters. We sat at a table outside under an awning on the pavement. We visited a monastery after lunch and Nicholas was particularly interested. We looked at a series of pictures showing the twelve stations of the Cross on the way to the Crucifixion. We had quite a serious discussion about heaven and then Nicholas asked, “Will you be there in heaven when I arrive Avril?”
When we got back home The boys and I spent several hours at the lake while Hugo and Alicia slept and Avril wrote up her diary. We had humitas and ensalada for dinner and then started to pack as we had to catch the bus at 6.30 in the morning. We got up at 5.30 and Alicia cooked the traditional eggs and hot chocolate. Then we washed up and had a mad rush to get the bus. Hugo had to return to the house to lock it up and collect the last carton and got back just as the bus arrived at 6.31.
Valdivia was a lovely city divided in two by Rio Calle Calle. We left our luggage in lock-up cupboards and then walked along the river. A lot of the houses were new as the 1960 earthquake destroyed so many. The lawns looked so green and as we walked along and pointed out that many houses had double garages, “Just like New Zealand,” said Hugo. We walked through an extensive open market and then came to an area where pleasure craft were tied up.
We hired a small boat with an outboard motor and crewman and spent the next hour exploring the island and sailing under two quite long bridges. The boys really enjoyed this, particularly as each had a chance to steer the boat. The island had quite a lot of housing as well as a museum and university which we could not see from the river.
After the trip we walked through the lunch time crowds at the city centre and then took a taxi to a restaurant famous for its asado beef and known to Hugo.
We chose to sit outside on a balcony overlooking the river where the boys found some trees to climb. We were hungry and thirsty after our early start and the restaurant did not disappoint. Then we went to look at a small ceramic shop nearby where they also had a display indoor plants and unusual pots. The elderly owner’s daughter showed us some watercolour paintings including one of a Kowhai flower copied from a postage stamp in his collection which gave us a chance to talk about New Zealand.
We caught a bus back to the city centre and then rested under some trees. Hugo and I had a sleep while the boys raced around. Later we found a tea rooms for a very welcome Once. Then we sat in the Square and watched the people pass by. Being New Year’s Eve everyone was dressed in their best.
We had time to take a taxi ride into a park where there was a large pond filled with flowering pink water lilies. These were the University grounds and the large area of lawns and tall trees made a lovely setting for photos. The taxi took us back to the bus station but we almost missed the bus because of a misunderstanding about the bus lines. However we piled on just in time while the luggage was still being counted.
We arrived at Puerto Varas on Lake Llanquihue about 11.00pm and were very pleased to see Fernando waiting for us with the hotel van. Our hotel was an old German house. It looked nothing from the outside but the interior was quite unique. The wooden creaking floors, high ceilings and wooden panelling and the many traditional decorations made it a very special place. The Manager’s wife and two daughters made us very welcome and at 11.30 served dinner.
At midnight they served champagne and everyone wished each other Feliz Año Nuevo with señora Elia and her daughters joining in. Hugo and the boys let off fireworks and then after a very pleasant meal, bed called for all of us. It had been a long day.
On New Years Day Fernando arrived with the van to take us for a drive around the lake but the boys were still asleep so we left an hour later.
Puerto Varas is a lovely town. Many of the streets are lined with flowering roses; an amazing sight. We drove up the western lake shore to Frutillar. We visited a church which was an old wooden building with a tall tower. The boys were very interested in the Christmas crib scene and the large Christmas tree outside with all the decorations made by the children. We disturbed two women who were cleaning around the graves.
This was a good stop for tourists and we entered an artesania shop which sold cotton crochet and tatting. Avril wanted to buy two pieces but the attendant would not sell because she did not know the price.
The beach by the lake was white sand. We would have liked to have stayed longer but the tour had just begun so on we went. The road was now unsealed, rather rough and dusty. The farmland was fertile and the dairy cows were mainly Friesian. The style of architecture changed. The houses then reminded us of Germany. All houses were now made of wood with wooden tiles on the roof.
We arrived at another little beach and had the usual big lunch of Cazuela, meat, potatoes and salad followed by dessert. Avril was not feeling well. She had the inevitable chilenitis.
Later we stopped to change a tyre at a country house. We tried to have tea at a neighbouring hotel but it was closed. There was no manager but Alicia returned with a tea bag for Avril who was resting in the shade as it was the only place away from noisy big black flies.
Then we found we had two flat tyres and the vulcaniser was not working well. To fill in time we all went walking in various directions.
I found a Police Station with two imitation cannons on the front lawn. The Policeman came out and was watching us carefully. We drove on and by Hotel Volcán Ensenada the Police had a roadblock but were only stopping some cars. We debated whether to go to Petrohue by a good road or more distant Ralún by a bad road but because Avril was not well we decided to return to Pto Varas stopping on the way at a restaurant to have tea. Nicholas was intrigued by the water wheel which was churning away with ropes and pulleys everywhere. We arrived back at 7.00pm and Avril went straight to bed. I took her in a little food.
We slept well. Breakfast was served in the dining room on the three long tables. Senora Elia and her daughters seemed to do all the work with another young woman coming in during the day.
After breakfast we caught the bus to Puerto Montt. The city was quite a contrast to Pto Varas. It looked rather dirty and run down compared with Pto Varas with its roses in the main street.
We waited in a crowded bus terminus for the ferry which was to take us to Ancud on the north coast of Chiloe. Hugo and I went across the road for a beer. The ferry trip did not take long.
The farms on the island looked small, each with a few cows, calves, pigs, vegetable garden and masses of beautifully stacked wood.
Ancud had a special charm. The streets were narrow and some were quite steep.As it was a Saturday, many shops were closed. The museum was excellent showing artifacts of early colonial days along with much information about the arrival of the early German settlers as well as the War of Independence from Spain. Apparently this was the last bastion of Spanish control. The turrets on the old fort area had been turned into artesania shops.
There was an historic ship in the centre of the courtyard and there were a number of cannons, whale pots and anchors on display. We were joined by a number of English speaking tourists. We took a taxi to the headland where there were many cannons to remind us of the defeat of the Spanish and then back to the ferry and bus to Pto Varas. The meal was ready but first Hugo made Pisco Sours as a final night gesture.
After dinner the boys played games for a while and then went off to bed. I took the opportunity to explore the town and finished up at the Casino. It cost 600 peso to enter and as I still had a couple of hundred peso to waste so after a period of observation I joined the gambling, found I was winning and then lost the lot. I stood back and watched the others lose their money. One man in particular seemed to be losing big amounts. He still had his shirt on when I left to wander back to the hotel.
We slept well but at 7.00am we were awakened by thirty young girls and their teachers from a music school in La Serena. They made so much commotion we thought there must be 300. We finally got up at 8.00, showered and had breakfast. Alicia said our rooms were required so we packed and moved all our gear into another room. We were taken to see an old lady of about 75 who took us upstairs to show us her great collection of African violets, cyclomen,begonias etc.
We left to wander the town and visited a market. For lunch we went to Club Alemán – established in 1885. Hugo was in his element. We had a lovely meal for 7,600 pesos—less than NZ$60 for six people including wine. We sat in the lounge and rested. Hugo and Alicia slept; the boys watched TV; I went out to take photos while Avril caught up with the diary. Many came in for a traditional family lunch. Their German ancestry was very evident. There were some fascinating groups, very prosperous and well fed.
We walked back to our hotel, had a cup of tea in the kitchen and then caught a taxi back to the Cruz del Sur bus terminus. The taxi was crowded so Avril and I walked. We were travelling by Cama Bus in great comfort. There were only 24 passengers and shortly after leaving, drinks were served. The countryside was beautiful; poplars and many other trees, cut hay, crops, horticulture (bags of nuts), ensilage and baled hay.
Avril said a trip to the bus toilet for a woman was very tricky. With the lurching of the bus it was not easy to get the seat down and then as you get up the seat returns rapidly vertical, however Nicholas said the best thing about the bus trip was the toilets. The bus station at Valdivia was very modern with rose gardens. The sun finally set at 9.50. Off again and more drinks and nibbles served.
At 10.30 we had a meal stop at Lanco. It was a quick three course tasty meal for 500 pesos each. Sleep was easy with the fully reclining seats and pillows and rugs provided. As it became light the people started to rouse. The countryside was now dry and brown. Breakfast consisted of a sandwich with coffee in a glass with a straw.. Hugo alerted us that we would be getting out before the terminus. We piled out; a taxi arrived and the luggage was checked and we were off home although the boys and I walked the final distance along Ventura Blanco Viel.
It was a good feeling to return to the cool clean house. We had breakfast outside and then showers and unpacking. I then left for the centre to hand in films and change some money. Hugo came with me some of the way to go to the YMCA and pay bills. Catalina attacked the washing and Avril wrote to Jo.
After a restful day we went in the car to Undarraga Bodega but found the workers were on strike and the gates were locked. The workers were outside with flags, whistles, collection tins and small publicity handouts. We continued on to Curacaví where we visited the Dulces Chileno factory. In the kitchen we watched as egg whites and sugar were being beaten in an enormous mixer. Large sheets of the short biscuit bases were being removed from the oven. A girl was skilfully covering the biscuits with meringue for another oven. The fillings are manjar or thick egg yolk custard. We each had a sample to eat and felt obliged to buy some to take home. They are delicious but oh so sweet!
We returned to Santiago via the big tunnel. Buy entering the tunnel from the Curacavi side, it meant we did not have to pay the toll. After lunch, Avril and Alicia went to Pedro de Valdivia Almac supermarket to buy fruit and vegetables for tonight’s party, a gift for Sr Tapia and a birthday gift for Nicholas.
That night there was a small party with the Tapias, Anita and Oscar Breinbauer and Sylvia and Alejandro Bustos. It was a delightful evening of talking although Avril and I were mainly listening.
On the 6th our time to leave Chile was getting close. Avril and Alicia went to Parque Arauco to buy jeans, a shirt and Bermuda shorts for Nicholas. Avril had suggested that Falabella would have a good selection but after selecting the clothes Avril found they would not take a Visa card. Avril had to use up all her cash.
That afternoon I visited the NZ Embassy. I arrived at 2.30 and was shown the waiting room. I read Telexes but the latest newspaper was the 17 November “because it takes so long for the Ambassador to read them.” Glen Booth, the Commercial Attache arrived at 2.45 from the airport. We had coffee and I raised the question of Kiwifruit production in Chile. He said the Chilean products arrived on the US market three weeks before the NZ products. They got the top prices of US$3.56 per kilo with US $3.28 a good average. We compared land prices for Kiwifruit orchards NZ US$7,000 hectare and at Curicó US $ 2,000 to 3,000 per hectare. He said a NZer advertised in the national paper saying that he had kiwi fruit plants for sale and even before he arrived, there were 50 willing buyers.
On the following day, Hugo, Alicia, Catalina and Avril and I all went to the embassy to watch Geoff and Graciela’s video message from NZ. This was Avril’s first trip to the embassy. Catalina was dressed in her best. The film was excellent and much appreciated. A few tears were shed. When it was over there was silence for a while—no doubt there were many thoughts of what they were missing with Graciela and Geoff in Wellington. Jennifer’s growth was commented on.
After returning home we went to a lovely nursery – Le Jardin San Francisco. We bought Alicia an Apricot Hibiscus. The Begonias were very colourful along with the annuals and hanging plants. Those that were growing in the shade were the most colourful and those outside were not in such good condition. Gardeners must have a real problem combating the dry atmosphere of Santiago. Later Avril and I went to the Aerolineas office to see whether my missing ticket Stgo/BA had arrived. It had accidentally been removed on entry to Chile. No sign of ticket and they promised they would ring. We collected the prescriptions for Nicholas’s warts from the Farmacia Ahumada. The chemist’s shop was absolutely packed with people three deep at the counter and at least 15 shop assistants were rushing back and forth. No prescriptions seem to be being made up as everything came directly off the shelves. Later Hugo and Alicia told us that this shop sells prescription medicines much cheaper than the chemist shops in the suburbs.
Then we took the Metro to Claudia’s flat. It was lovely to see Claudia again and to meet Leonardo senior and junior. Her baby was 22 days old and looked so tiny. He was still having 3 hourly bottle feeds. The father seemed to share the feeding and care of the baby very well. They lived in a very small flat; a minute kitchen, one bedroom living area and bathroom. We joined them for drinks, nibbles and pizzas. Claudia looked well but we did not stay long. David came back with us and stayed the night.
I took David and Nicholas to Mundomagico.
We travelled there on Metro Linea 2 and had a short walk from the station. The entrance fee was 330 peso but once we were inside many things were free. The boys bounced around on the rubber castle and then it was time for drinks.
The boys had great fun manipulating miniature racing cars from a steering wheel on the balcony above. Then we went for a train ride around Chile in miniature. An historic model steam train pulled about eight carriages around the coastline and through the ports and cities where many famous buildings were easily identified. The boys were very interested to see the places they had been to. There was a charge but the girl found it so hard to explain the prices that she let us on free.
Then we headed off to a stage show with eight giant animals all electrically controlled singing and playing instruments.
We wanted to do spin painting but found it closed so we went on to rifle shooting. The rifles were like machine guns and spattered about 100 pellets on to the target.
Then we caught the Metro to Estacion Central and then had a short walk to the Planetarium. Phew!
The design, construction and maintenance were really very modern. The entrance fee was 300 and 150 peso for each of the boys. We arrived about 7 minutes after the show had started so we bumbled to the back seats with only the wall behind us and watched the large projector rise from the floor in the centre of the room. The boys were very interested and were fully involved with everything; especially the stars on the wall behind them. The programme emphasised Chile’s participation in space and showed what space saucers would look like. We returned at 9.30pm.
The next day was Nicholas’s 8th birthday. In the morning it was overcast and the air was quite cool. We wondered if it would rain. Nicholas came in to our bedroom to show us his new pyjamas and a new Auto game. Then after breakfast Avril and I went into Santiago to collect the missing ticket from AR. We took time off to have cappuccino coffee at the Cafe Haiti and returned to Blanco Viel for lunch. Cristina had arrived with Paula. Party preparations continued. Roberto arrived with Karen and Nicole. Balloons and streamers were put up and all the plates, cups and paper serviettes had a cumpleaños motif.
The party began with a traditional treasure hunt and a Piñata. Nicholas was the first to attack it. Hugo swung him around a few timed to disorient him but Nicholas was still able to hit it first time even though Cristina was varying the height. He was followed by David, Paula, Karen and Nicole and eventually it broke and there was a scramble for the sweets falling on the pathway. Then we sat down to a large cake with candles, ice cream, sweets and drinks. We all had a lot of fun. While the children played the adults had tea, bread and cheese etc.
Later that night Alicia and Hugo took us out to dinner at L’Ermitage – a French Restaurant in Las Condes. We left with Catalina playing International with Nicholas and David. This night out was a special occasion so it was time for Hugo and me to wear dark suits.
For pre dinner drinks Hugo had a Martini while the rest of us had a Vaina; an old red wine with sugar and eggs and topped with Cinnamon. For entrees Avril had Ceviche and the rest of us had Seafood Mornay. For mains, Hugo and Alicia had fish, Avril had lamb and I had duck. For desserts, Alicia had a Hazelnut Torte, Avril had a plate of fresh fruit and Hugo and I had helado in tall glasses with a strong Drambuie flavour. Hugo chose the wines. I was surprised no French wines were available but of course the Chilean wines are looked on as the best available. The food was out of this world; the service was excellent and it was a great night.
Sunday the 10th began leisurely. In the afternoon we went to visit the Breinbauer family.
Their modern house was beautifully designed by Anita who was at Architecture School with Alicia. Avril, Hugo, Alicia and the children had a swim in their large pool.
We had once at a table on the patio They were great hosts.
Our final day began with Catalina washing Nicholas’ clothes and then the final packing. I used the video to record final messages for Graciela and Geoff and Hugo Chico joined us for lunch. Hugo also asked me to video the new bathroom with its new bath, toilet, hand basin and mirror.
Our departure from Blanco Viel was rather sad. Catalina was quite devastated to say goodbye to Nicholas.
We had plenty of time at the airport for us to say farewell to Alicia and Hugo. They had given the three of us a wonderful holiday and we were very sad to leave them.
John Vernon Head 